тук & там

In the sun.

2011-04-23T04:33:00.000-07:00

It's a long, beautiful, sunny Easter weekend and I have just finished all of my grading/teacher evals.

Yeah, the clip pretty much sums it up.

Weekends and Triumphant Returns

2011-04-23T04:32:00.000-07:00

So, dear readers, it's been a while. "What has she been up to?" you might be wondering. Is she jet-setting off to fabulous destinations or being thoroughly taken out by the Sofia cobblestones of death on her daily runs? Drinking cafe in the sunny park feeling free and easy or being overloaded with grading, evaluations and the feeling of impending doom/unemployment upon return to the US?

The answer to this is all of the above.

I'm happy to report that my lack of blogging is primarily due to life being busy, but downright awesome of late. I've got fabulous weather, fabulous students, and have definitely had some pretty fabulous adventures during my blogger absence. Have no fear, I'll report on all of them right here.

However, before I start raving about travels and spring break, I want to be sure to give Sofia its due. It's a city that has put me through a lot, but that I've grown to absolutely love. It's just so quirky and lively in the strangest little ways and always keeps you guessing. Springtime has made this place totally come alive again. On my runs through the nearby park I am now entertained by gyspy music, performers practicing on stilts, numerous rollerbladers and skateboarders and the ever present Bulgarian ping pong obsession. I also think Sofia might be the only place where, within one single block I'm forced to dodge traffic including both a shiny new Ferrari and a horse drawn cart as well as a few toddlers on training wheel bikes that seem to be on a consistent suicide mission with my shins.

I've been making a point to try and/or go somewhere new every day to make the most of my time left here. A few days ago I went to this lovely bar/cafe where I enjoyed the most beautiful rhubarb tea. You can see the photos of this place above. I know, it might not sound overly appetizing but it was absolutely delicious and look at that color! There's not doubt in my mind that I'll be stopping there again on my next walk over to the Commission.

School has also been amazing. I love my mentor and my students and continue to learn more from them daily. I'm so proud of all of my graduating seniors but am also sad to see them go. They've just been too much fun, but more on this later. These kids deserve their own post.

Daily link roundup:

Listening to this.

Wishing I was eating this, though delicious Kozunak will have to suffice until I have time to bake.

"Not dead yet!"

2011-04-21T03:25:00.000-07:00

I promise that is blog is not dead yet and will, in fact, actually get better (with the help of Easter break and a consistent wifi connection).

Expect more soon!

The Reading List

2011-03-26T06:27:00.000-07:00

* pub in Lyon

As you may have noticed, my reading list has continued to grow longer as well as had the occasional change due to completion of a text or book availability (even in Sofia, the English book selection proves relatively limited and ever changing). However, upon completing 1984, I finished up on of my major goals for the year, aka literary crash-course in dystopian literature. It felt fitting to read dystopian texts while living in an area of the world that has literally lived though some of the experiences that to Americans are limited to the world of fiction. I'm quite proud that I've managed to achieve my reading goal, but that now leaves me with over 90 days left in Bulgaria (not to mention one LONG plane ride home) with nothing to read.

Tentatively I'm planning to tackle some other classics I've yet to get around to, including Crime and Punishment (on which I've already made some good progress) and Anna Karenina. Clearly, Russian/Eastern European lit is also a major theme of the list, and one that's proved surprisingly easy despite the often daunting length of the books. Perhaps it's just that much easier to read novels about Ivanovas, Semyonovas, Lebesziatnikovs, Luzhins, Pyotr Petrovichs and keep them all straight in one's head when one teaches a class full of Vasil/Vesilina Vasilovichs, Boris/Borislavas, Gerganas, Lyubens, Georgi Gregorovichs etc (the list could go on and on). I'm also seriously contemplating Ulysses for June, just in time for Bloomsday. We'll see how far I manage to get as I have no doubt that life will keep me busy as I prepare for my return, but I never like to be without a good book. A girl never knows when she'll get stranded in the airport for 3+ hours with nothing to do.

So, dear readers, if you have any suggestions please feel free to offer them. I'm always up for a good read.

100 Days of Spring

2011-03-26T04:47:00.000-07:00

*fresh floral photos from France

Spring has officially sprung in Sofia and I'm immensely grateful. Over the past few months my appreciation, and now, downright love for this concrete city has continued to grow, however, sunshine, strawberry tea and fresh flowers make appreciation that much easier. So much has happened in the past week that you must forgive me for not being free to blog much about it. In the past ten days or so I've managed to catch the cold of the season, fall ill and subsequently recover, finish Orwell's 1984, spring clean my apartment and give my first major exam. The cold was unfortunate but couldn't be helped. Numerous Babas, students, and other Bulgarian friends have explained to me that I should expect nothing less with the changing seasons. I'm pleased to finally be able to check that book of my list as I feel I should have read it long ago (say, high school?) and a clean environment is always a pleasure. The exam went rather well, if the level of my students displeasure is any indication. I'm mostly just pleased to have it over as the minds of Bulgarian high school students across the country are growing a bit frenzied and distracted with Spring Break just around the corner.

I'll do my best to catch you up a bit before I head out on Spring Break adventures, where I will be computer-less. The rest of the weekend is looking like it will be filled with some much needed fun and relaxation, not to mention plenty of grading. I'm hoping to fit in some running, reading, and hopefully exploring if the nice weather continues to hold up. Until next time, довиждане!

Culinary Excursions: France

2011-03-16T08:23:00.000-07:00

Meringue cookie avec pralines. Isn't the pink color beautiful?

My friend Sarah informed be before I ate this that if I'd never eaten an eclair in France then I had spent my life thus far one eclair away from happiness. As usual, she was right.

Croque-monsieur? Mais oui!

Marzipan candies special to Lyon. They were not only beautiful, but delicious and filled with chocolate.

Palachinka/Crepe. Anyway you spell it, I love it. This one was with white chocolate filling.


While Bulgaria does have many delicious local foods, it's a little lacking in global cuisine so of course I jumped at the chance to eat spring rolls and curry!

Saucisson comme brioche.

Of course it's not a trip to France without at least one macaron. C'etait framboise.

Just a sampling of the many delicious things I had the pleasure of eating in Lyon. Needless to say I'd go back in a heartbeat, if only to eat dinner.

Les Animaux

2011-03-16T08:22:00.000-07:00

One of my many stops in Lyon was the zoo. As the above pictures show, it was clearly full of fantastic and well cared for animals which was quite a relief after seeing some of the conditions that animals are often kept in zoos here in Bulgaria. Not only were the enclosures and their inhabitants interesting, they were entirely FREE, which one can never complain about. It was a decidedly cool setup as the zoo was in the middle of a public park, around which plenty of people were enjoying a weekend walk or run. Yes, you read that correctly, running, in France. It was a shock to us too!

Some more French cuteness to finish the post.

Un bon week-end

2011-03-16T08:21:00.000-07:00

As I mentioned in my previous post, I was lucky enough to be able to take a wonderful weekend trip to Lyon, France to see my longtime friend Sarah. It was a belated birthday present from my parents, to whom I'm eternally grateful, because it was truly the experience of a lifetime. Truly one of the best times I've ever had. Sarah and I had always talked about traveling France together when we were imaginative little middle school students reading Les Miserables together. Amazingly enough, ten years later, we managed to make it happen.

The weekend itself consisted of beautiful weather, 3 full days of site-seeing, and not a flight delay in sight. Of course, the food was incredible and, as would be expected in Lyon, tres francais (more on this later). We spent our days wandering the city, walking by the Rhone, and catching up on life. It got off to a good start when we were able to attend a fantastic music performance/poetry reading sponsored by Le Printemps des Poetes. After living in a country where my language skill are minimal, though constantly improving, I was shocked and excited at how much I was able to understand and enjoy the event. I was a bit too timide to practice my French, but managed to muster up the courage for the last couple of days. Other excursions included various cafes, churches, museums, parks, and even the zoo! We also got to take a fun ride on a Ferris-wheel in the center of the city. Overall, I think it was just what we both needed and I feel incredibly blessed that I had to opportunity to experience it all.

Back in action.

2011-03-16T07:26:00.000-07:00

My apologies to my regular readers as I have no doubt this blog has been rather stale reading of late as posts have been non-existent. Thankfully, having returned from travels and finally settled into a great new routine at school I now have a bit more time and plenty of delicious things to write about.

The past few weeks have been a bit of a blur. I've been busy teaching, covering some of my favorite literature including Hemingway, Owen and even Heller's Catch-22, which is always great fun. Interspersed with this has been a whole lot of travel. I can now officially check two things off of my bucket list. First, I visited Beethoven's grave in Vienna, and second, I journeyed to France with my wonderful old friend Sarah (a trip we had imagined for the first time as mere 8th graders). While I wouldn't trade them for anything I'm happy to be back in Bulgaria and settled for a bit, especially as spring is finally making an appearance.

Rather than try to create one massive narrative of the past few weeks, I'll try to divide it up into a series of themed posts. We'll see how this goes!

PS: Scratch that, make that 3 things I can check off my list. I have officially finished Tolstoy's War and Peace. All 1215 pages of it.

Lately

2011-03-09T10:07:00.000-08:00

I apologize for not posting much in the past few weeks. I've been quite busy, but thankfully continuing to love life and work, oh, and travel. Speaking of which, I'm venturing forth again this weekend. While a more legitimate/substantive blog post is certainly forthcoming and much needed, I can't promise anything overly immediate.

music.

Fitter, happier, more productive...

2011-02-23T01:28:00.000-08:00

*Photos of Rila Monastery

While it's been awhile since I've posted, I'm happy to say it's because I been busy with far too many good things. School has been a little crazier this week, but I am really enjoying my students and fellow teachers, and never mind an excuse to brush up on my Milton. Our premature spring has once again been traded in for winter as these last few days of February have been covered in snow. I'm not complaining as even concrete looks quite beautiful decked out in white.Today is my day off this week, which I fully intend to spend lazing about and conquering at least another pages of War and Peace. In other reading news I finally managed to get my hands on Zamyatin's We thanks to a good friend. After reading it I'm prouder than ever of the fact that I adamantly refused to refer to my students by their numbers rather than their names in class.

All in all life is good and well worth all the trouble I've both put up with and made the past 6 months.

Listening to:

Обичам те

2011-02-15T00:13:00.000-08:00

*photos from a boa-bedecked bar in Sofia

Bulgaria, you are fantastic. Guess I'm just a lucky girl.

Happy (if slightly belated) Valentines Day!

music.

Good Day. Sunshine.

2011-02-07T12:41:00.000-08:00

Today was arguable the best thaw I have ever experienced. The sun was out and Sofia came alive again for the first time in months. The weather was absurdly warm for February, and I'm considering it a belated birthday present. All in all, it was a great start to a great day. I got to meet my mentor at my new placement, which went well. I also found out that I'll be teaching some of my favorite literature, from Heller to Hemingway. While I've yet to meet my new students, things are looking bright.

I spent the rest of the day running errands and taking some walks around a my local parks and even managed to sneak in some lemon tea and 50 more pages of War and Peace.

music:

Books and Where I Read Them

2011-02-04T03:14:00.000-08:00

Sometimes I feel like the title of this post should be the title of this blog, as reading has become one of my primary activities here. This week was no exception, as a downed internet connection inevitably lead to hours spent reading at nearby cafes. For better or for worse, I finished the two books that I had thought would last me through February, Smith's On Beauty and Kundera's Laughter and Forgetting. As a whole I definitely preferred the former and not only because it combined two of my favorite things, Zadie Smith and paisley print. The novel does a great job describing the personal side of academia and its unique frustrations which, while I can't say that I miss these things about university life, definitely made me a little nostalgic. As for the Kundera, I enjoyed The Incredible Lightness of Being much more. This is probably just because it talks about Beethoven.

I do my best to use reading as a way to explore new places around my neighborhood, though the above photos were taken at a couple of commonly frequented cafes. Please note the yellow substance in the third photo. That is honey, delicious, golden honey. I don't even take honey in my tea, but I couldn't say no. I will probably consume a lot of it as I take on the next thing on my reading list, War and Peace. Simply due to its weight in my bag it feels more deserving of the title "tome" than "novel". Twelve-hundred pages is more than a little intimidating, but thankfully I do like Tolstoy, and with a good translation, find him surprisingly funny and easy to read. My friend Maria may have been joking about finding a Russian family to adopt me, but regardless I'll have a good three generations of fictional Russian families to commiserate with in the next few weeks.

As usual, some reading music.

February

2011-02-04T00:46:00.000-08:00

It's very weird to have less than 150 days left in Bulgaria. While I've yet to start at my new school life already feels like less of an uphill battle, which is a refreshing change to say the least. There's nothing quite like being in good spirits in my favorite cozy snowy season, not to mention my favorite month of the year. While things have been pretty mellow this week I'm excited for the weekend's upcoming adventures. In the meantime, here are some photos of snowy Sofia for y'all.

Some old favorites/cute overload to welcome February:

music. music. music. music.

Where The Wild Things Are

2011-02-03T23:30:00.000-08:00

Last weekend I was lucky enough to catch the annual International Kukeri Festival in Pernik, a small town just outside of Sofia. Kukeri dancing is a Bulgarian tradition in which (historically) men dress up in elaborate costumes and masks, tie heavy bells around their waists and preform a variety of different dances. These dances range from traditional dances, to faux-wedding ceremonies and other "parodies" of traditional rights. Theses dances stem from a traditional belief in Kukeri, which are evil monsters or spirits said to be prevalent this time of year, in the coldest days. In our culture classes during the opening conference we were treated to some lovely folklore about how Kukeri, if they catch you out at night, will tear you apart and fling your intestines about. The costumes and the dances are meant to both scare off and confuse the evil spirits, thus protecting women and children in the villages. Often in the faux wedding dances the "bride" is usually a man dressed in drag, so that real potential brides are protected. While at this festival rival Kukeri dancing bands merely competed in front of judges, in earlier times, bands of young men dressed as Kukeri used to roam around villages and rumble Sharks and Jets style.

While it was positively frigid out that day, the costumes were beautiful and worth every freezing minute. They were constructed out of everything from fur to feathers and I couldn't help but feel like I was watching a fantastic Maurice Sendak parade. It was also interested to see the way in which this tradition has survived into the contemporary era. Children and women now often take part in the dancing in parts traditionally played by men (though young men still make up the majority).

One of the most interesting moments at the festival was when I went to purchase some cotton candy. In Bulgaria they put unimaginable amounts of spun sugar on sticks that could easily serve as fire kindling. It's incredible. Anyway, the woman making the cotton candy was incredibly friendly and excited to talk to a Russian and welcome me to the festival. From what little I understood, I explained that I was in fact American, as which she became very excited and chatty. She informed me that she was very poor and "tsigani", a term that I've heard used to both describe impoverished Bulgarians but also the Roma. It's usually used in a somewhat derogatory/discriminatory sense. She was thrilled to tell me all about how much she approved of the US, a land which was clearly without discrimination because of our African-American president and how frustrated she was at the discrimination she encountered in Bulgaria. It's funny how often one encounters moments abroad like this, where one is simultaneously proud and saddened by the state of affairs. I wished I could explain to her, that despite progress, the US is hardly a land without discrimination, and yet was very proud to be considered a representative of a place that gave her hope. It's not often that I encounter Bulgarians who actively believe that their lives could and should be different so talking to her was a real treat.

Links: 31/1/2011

2011-01-31T12:42:00.000-08:00

*photos from Istanbul

People

Places

Music

Midterm Report

2011-01-31T09:50:00.000-08:00

* photos from Munich. Love that script.

I'm currently in the process of finishing the last bits of my midterm report and can't quite wrap my head around the fact that I'm over halfway through this year. As of tomorrow I have approximately 150 days left until I'm back in the US. Crazy stuff. I dare not say that time has passed quickly, but it's certainly been an eventful 6 months. Thankfully some of the less positive "events" of that period are really turning around.

I'm thrilled to report that I'm starting work at a new school, where I'll be working more with literature. My reading list may have made this obvious, but it's something that I must confess I've missed terribly. This is not to say that I hold back in any way in relation to books, as I went to the bookstore today to pick up some new titles, writing them off in my mind as preemptive birthday presents. Acceptable right? I'm also finally feeling better, so with some luck I might even be able to read them somewhere other than my cabin fever inducing apartment.

This cold weather in Sofia has everyone staying inside. I was shocked today to find streets practically empty on my way to the bookstore. My friend and wonderful supporter Maria jokingly told me today that she should find a Russian family to adopt me here, because not only would I fit in with them in regards to appearance but because they could teach me a thing or two about staying warm in freezing winters. If the babas on the street are any indication, the answer is fur, fur and more fur.

It looks like I'll be spending plenty of time in cozy cafes this week, rather than out and about, especially because it's epidemic season in BG. First it was Hep A, now it's the flu. I was originally hoping to start school this Tuesday, but several schools are currently on "flu-cation" as at least 30% of students are currently absent with flu symptoms. This is something I have a hard time imagining in some ways, not the illness, but the fact that this would shut down a school. Apparently it's usual procedure, but I find it funny that this is what is normal for my students, while they've never had a "snow day" in their entire lives. American and Bulgarian K-12 students must have decidedly different winter hopes for time off. That being said, I'll be doing everything I can to avoid said influenza. I can't say I'll be piling on the fur, but I'll definitely take tea, tea and more tea any day of the week.

Outlook is good.

Signal Strength: Excellent

2011-01-30T08:20:00.000-08:00

If the title of this blog is meant to be an indication of the state of my current internet connection, it is a blatant lie. This is the primary reason behind the lack of updates and specifically lack of photos of late, though I have some interesting ones I'm hoping to post soon. With any luck I'll work with my landlady to remedy the situation before we're too far into February. In the meantime I'll take this entirely textual opportunity to share some life and reading updates and observations:

First, in regards to the weather. A friend of mine was correct when she said "Fear not, January is the cruelest month, as April is actually quite nice here". We've had a cold snap of late that's been, well, freezing. Don't get me wrong, I'm all for winter weather in winter and I love the snow, but walking home from the trolley stop last night was painful. I suppose what I'm getting at is that at this point in the year, these kind of temperatures seem entirely unnecessary. It's winter, it's cold, okay Bulgaria, I get it. No need to waste your breath.

Second, some exciting changes are in the works. As the last few months have been an adventure I'm looking forward to having a fresh start that I'm hoping will help things feel much less mediocre. More on this in the next week or so. Until then, keeping the dream alive.

Third, the quote of the day:

"Bullard, who had been, before he retired, successful in many fields, enjoyed reviewing his important past. But he faced the problem that complicates the lives of cannibals - namely: that a single victim cannot be used over and over"

Tom Edison's Shaggy Dog - Vonnegut

music music music

What's in a name?

2011-01-24T05:44:00.000-08:00

*Tea, cake, and "Broaster"? Photos from Stara Zagora, Bulgaria

My name has always gotten me into complicated situations. This started as early as grade school when I had to explain that no, I did not have two last names, merely one, with a necessary prefix. These cannot, however, be made into a singular word. This is a problem I still encounter making any kind of reservation or conducting any online transaction. "Names must be made up of valid characters only" meaning,

NO SPACES ALLOWED.

In Bulgaria, the name saga has continued in ways I never would have expected or imagined. Of course, this is partially due to being in Europe, where names are much more culturally and historically loaded. While in the USA we might notice a name that sounds particularly ethnic, due to spelling or pronunciation difficulty, we don't always immediately assume a strong cultural tie or connection. Europe is a different story. In many respects your name is much more indicative of your family, your history, your nationality and your identity. I've mentioned before that my name has only contributed to the confusion about my nationality here in Bulgaria, so for this post, I'll try to illustrate encounters with that theme.

So, situations my name has gotten me into in Bulgaria:

1) Upon getting my passport stolen and attempting to file a report for the police.

Police Officer: speaking in Bulgarian

Translator: Responding and explaining the situation in Bulgarian

An argument ensues

Me: "What's the problem?"

Translator: "He wants to know why a German is reporting having an American passport stolen"

Me: "..."

2)On the first day of school.

Teacher: "You are American yes?"

Me: "That I am"

Teacher: "Oh good. We saw your name and were worried that there had been some sort of mistake."

Teacher: "So, do you speak German?"

Me: "No, just English and French"

Me: "Are there any other teachers who speak English? That would be willing to help me?"

Teacher: "Of course. You will meet Elke"

Me: "Oh good. I would be happy to."

I am introduced to Elke, who shakes my hand and smiles before running off to class.

Me: "What does Elke teach?"

Teacher: "Oh Bulgarian. But she speaks Bulgarian and German. You will be friends. Good friends."

Me: "No English?"

Teacher: "Of course not, but Bulgarian and German."

Me: "But I don't speak German..."

Teacher: "Do not worry, you will be friends. Good friends."

It should be noted that Elke and I have been introduced and have met many times, each of which we smiled kindly at each other and communicated via non-verbal signals. She seems like a lovely woman but our friendship is most definitely characterized by an amicable silence.

"Worth the consideration of those to whom it may prove worth considering"

2011-01-23T11:45:00.000-08:00

*photos from Munich

Today was another day in trying to recover from this pesky illness. It's slow going, but I'm finally on the mend I think. The return of winter weather has been a bit harsh on that front, but I love the beautiful snow. Today I finished Melville's The Confidence-Man, watched Apocalypse Now (which really just made me wish I had my copy of Heart of Darkness with me), and tried to practice a little violin. We'll see if I can keep to this at least an hour a day music schedule. While I'm over halfway through this experience, there are times when 5 months still feels like an intimidating figure. So, in an effort to use this time well, I'm searching for things to add to my reading list and am contemplating taking on some hefty Russian lit. This could prove fatal to my fledgling positive outlook/attitude that I'm attempting to cultivate so I suppose I'll have to choose carefully! Writing is also beginning to happen again, thank goodness.

Other attempts at entertainment include this and lots of this

Quote of the day:

"And don't dream, as some of you students may, that, by taking this same ugly view, the deeper meanings of the deeper books will so alone become revealed to you"

- Melville's Confidence Man, on Tacitus

Do not pass go. Do not collect $200.

2011-01-22T04:27:00.000-08:00

So, in the process of my daily perusing of the internet, I stumbled upon this. The game is meant to help children in the post-communist generation understand what daily existence was like under socialist/communist government. Specifically,

"the goal of the game, which will officially be launched on Feb. 5, is to show how hard and frustrating it was for an average person to simply do their shopping under the Communist regime in Poland. The game has been developed by the Institute of National Remembrance (IPN), a Warsaw-based research institute that commemorates the suffering of the Polish people during the Nazi and Communist eras."

I won't summarize too much here, but I'd strongly advise you to check out the article. However, currently living in a "post-communist" society, I find this game particularly intriguing, not only because of the way its content still oddly applies to my life in Bulgaria, but because of what I feel its creation says about the state of Polish and other post-communist societies.

First and foremost I guess this made me consider the ways in which society has changed, or not. Granted, I never experienced Bulgaria under what is often referred to here as "the socialism" but there are distinct elements of Bulgarian society that I would imagine that this period highly influenced. The difficulty, I suppose, is pinpointing exactly what these are; what has changed and what has remained the same. I wonder if there's any correlation between the fact that this entire game is spent recreating the experience of waiting in lines and the intense Bulgarian aversion to forming a queue of any kind, even for simple activities such as boarding a bus, or buying tickets. No matter what, these events are always a mad dash, even amongst the elderly (who, I can personally vouch, show no mercy in the bus boarding process). Much like this game indicates, communist societies were clearly run by a different set of "rules" that, in my experience remain evident socially. I'm often left feeling that I'm playing a game for which I'm missing the rulebook. This is especially true in relation to networking, in which it's never what you know, or the official guidelines, but WHO you know (and what they can do for you) that matters. This runs entirely contrary to my decidedly American, law-abiding ways, that only in coming here did I realize I even possessed.

The game also speaks to the generational gap of cultural experience. I see it every day in my students, who have a completely different experience of the world than their parents. They often feel like they lack opportunity, and this is partially true. Bulgaria is not particularly flourishing at the moment, what with political corruption and economic recession, however, in is in no way as cut off from the world as it would have been 50 years ago. To illustrate this fact I often point to the fact that I, an American, am living and teaching here. There is always the pull of nostalgia, especially for the older generation, who, when hearing my descriptions of some of the criminal incidents I've encountered and survived, often say "that never would have happened before" meaning under "the socialism". It's a challenging place for a society to be in, no doubt about it, as the past wasn't pretty, but the future also doesn't look too welcoming.

The societal reaction to EU membership and globalization in general has been interesting to compare in the various states that I've been able to visit thus far. While this was not necessarily an intentional comparison, there are some things that are immediately noticeable as different. In comparison to Sofia, visiting Krakow was almost like visiting Western Europe and the fact that this game is created by a Polish organization illustrates a sort of collective effort to not forget the sufferings of Polish society in the post-WWII era. Romania, while very different from Poland, also felt like it had a different take on its communist past. Granted, this is merely observation on my part, but it seemed that Romanians in general were more enthusiastic about capitalistic endeavors and opportunity than most Bulgarians I encounter. If I were to venture a guess as to why these differences exist I would say that it might have something to do with the varying experiences of communism in these states. Romanians suffered under a rather notorious dictatorship, while in Bulgaria the government, while viewed as frustrating and corrupt, also seems to inspire a sort of ambivalence. In comparison to Romania, its government was relatively benign. In general though, this is not so much a lack of desire for change, but a sense of resignation that change is impossible and therefore any effort to create it is ultimately futile.

There you have it. My thinking for the day.

Bulgaria, Babas and more...

2011-01-19T03:34:00.000-08:00

*photos from a nearby traditional Bulgarian village

You may have noticed the new background, inspired by one of my favorite things about Bulgaria, the Babas or "Grannies". The Babas will never cease to help, advise and amuse, whether you like it or not.

A good example of this would be my trip to the grocery a few months ago. As I was perusing the dairy aisle and attempting to decipher the labels of Bulgarian yogurt a kindly, and distinctly diminuitive older woman quickly came to my aid, assertively removing the yogurt I had chosen from my shopping basket and replacing it with another. This was only the beginning of her well-meant shopping tyranny, as she then proceeded to follow me around the store, replacing many of my choices ones that she perceived to be more appropriate. It should be noted that she did not speak a word of English and thus, this encounter was dominated by miming and smiling and nodding on my part. I had admitted to not knowing when she "assisted" me with my yogurt dilemma but she took this in stride, and proceeded to chatter away. My lack of understanding was of no importance. I was being forced to learn regardless. While frustrating at times, this kind of "help" is one of Bulgaria's more endearing qualities, but it's characters like this old woman that have kept this adventure entertaining. Never before have I encountered a personality so strong that it so quickly and decisively decimated barriers of both language and culture.

It wasn't my favorite yogurt, but it definitely ranks as one of my favorite BG moments.

2010: Warhorse

2011-01-18T15:13:00.000-08:00

*photos from the Imperial War Museum, London

Looking back at 2010 I can honestly say it was one of my best and most challenging years yet. I'm more than a little surprised by just how much can happen over the course of twelve months. A year ago I never would have though that I, a recent university graduate, would find myself living in the Balkans and encountering both the adventure and the adversity that that entails. While I've tried to provide at least a basic narrative of my travels, I realized that I have forgotten to write and share some of my favorite moments of the past year. One of these moments was getting to see the production Warhorse at the National Theater in London. This show one of the most beautiful things I've ever seen. The sheer artistry involved in making the puppets that are used to tell the story of a boy and his horse in WWI is incredible to say the least. I've never seen anything quite like it before and I highly doubt it will be topped any time soon. Check out the preview here to see what I'm talking about.

I'd go back and see it again in a heartbeat.

What do you mean "He don't eat no meat?"

2011-01-17T11:31:00.000-08:00

*photos from Munich, Germany

Resting up this week on account of this cold. I've concluded that if I am what I eat then I am most definitely alphabet soup and a grilled cheese sandwich.

I suppose I should mention this as one unintentional result of living in Bulgaria, pseudo-vegetarianism. Typically quite a carnivore, it's been rather strange to realize that its been days or weeks since I've eaten anything that tastes like chicken, or even is chicken. This is for a variety of reasons. First, I've not had the best of luck eating out in Bulgaria (though I can vouch that they do have a variety of yummy dishes) but more importantly, I've been informed by friends via helpful Bulgarians, that it's crucial to carefully examine the labels on meat at the store simply because unless it is guaranteed from specific areas/certified as a certain type, it might not actually be meat. As my Bulgarian is not particularly advanced, I'm not sure I'm willing to take that risk. Thankfully all sorts of delicious nuts are quite cheap here, so protein is still abundant. As for other food, I'm also developing a theory that french fries are available and tasty pretty much everywhere on this Earth. Bulgaria is no exception.

Summer Holiday

2011-01-16T02:17:00.000-08:00

*photos from London (as if you couldn't tell)

Curious times in Sofia of late. For some reason the freezing January weather has decided to take a vacation and has been replaced with surprisingly thawed spring-like temperatures. Sadly I have been unable to enjoy this premature seasonal shift as I've been doing continuous battle with this very frustrating cold. As such, the past week has entailed a lot of staring out the window at grey-blue skies and the neighboring communist-era block housing. It's funny how that has so quickly become a mundane sight to me.

Hopefully said cold will be vanquished this week with the assistance of an English speaking doctor. I suppose that is one major challenge of being ill abroad in a situation involving a language barrier. Negotiating not only language issues, but an entirely different medical system has been quite an adventure. Thankfully I've had plenty of support from friends, good reading material (Keats and Murakami) and brilliant albums to listen to.

Because John Hughes-esque 80's dream pop is always the best medicine.

Top Five

2011-01-13T10:03:00.000-08:00

*photos from London

Well folks, it's all downhill from here. If memory and mathematical skills serve me correctly I'm officially over halfway done with my stay in Bulgaria as of yesterday. It's really quite odd to think about the fact that I've been here almost six months. That being said, to celebrate I thought I'd share with you my own variation on a list begun by my friend Laura.

So, here they are. Vonfancy's Bulgarian Top Five.

You know you live in Bulgaria when...

5) Non-verbal signals for yes and no mean nothing to you (as their meanings are reversed in BG) and you've adopted the enigmatic head wobble as a response to all queries.

4)You carry packets of tissues with you at all times. You will ALWAYS need it for something, especially as toilet paper, and oftentimes actual toilets, are not provided.

3)You go through your closet or out shopping and find yourself thinking that everything looks better paired with leather and/or fur.

2)You have students named "Gerry" and "Boris" and they happen to be female.

1) Laughter, sarcasm, and "rolling with it" become your way of life, if only because you couldn't make this stuff up if you tried.

Hound Dog

2011-01-09T16:36:00.000-08:00

* photos from Istanbul

Today was rather bizarre, ranging from tragic to pretty darn good over the course of a mere few hours. Walking to the store my good friend and I witnessed the precise reason why it's so important to fund animal control programs which, as I may have mentioned before, seem to be relatively nonexistent (or at least certainly not a priority) here in Bulgaria. We saw a lovely dog get hit by a car in an intersection and the driver leave the scene, with the dog alive, but unable to move itself out of the road. I won't go into the sad details, but will say that finally some kind people stopped and loaded the poor thing into a car. The worst part of the whole scenario was being unable to communicate what had happened to the dog's owner, who showed up distraught.

A little shaken up, we decided to attempt to save the evening with port, french fries, and Star Wars. Clearly we are quite a classy duo, but I would say we were relatively successful.

Besides, January 8th can never be all bad as it is the birthday of the King after all. It's hard to believe that this time last year I was flying into Memphis and eating Elvis birthday cake.

Just the concrete and a worried mind...

2011-01-06T14:08:00.000-08:00

*photos of Sofia

I get to have lovely visitors this week in Sofia thanks to the Hepatitis A outbreak in southern Bulgaria.

Let's hope it stays there, lest life get a little too exciting.

Listening to this.

Precious Moments

2011-01-05T05:44:00.000-08:00

*photos from the basilica cistern in Istanbul

While teaching is definitely crucial for increasing knowledge, cultural exchange, and opportunities for my students, it also lends itself to some very special moments. This week has certainly been full of them. One of these was having to explain the difference in meaning between "hang out" and "hung over". I also had a group of students address me after class to inform me, with great timidity, that they were afraid of my use of irony.

As for the latter, I have no idea what they could be talking about.

4/1/2011

2011-01-04T09:58:00.000-08:00

Back to the daily grind of teaching. Listening to Neko Case and wishing I had a book to read.

In a seedy karaoke bar, on the banks of the mighty Bosphorus...

2011-01-03T11:38:00.000-08:00

A little taste of Istanbul

December: In review

2011-01-03T07:59:00.000-08:00

*photos from Munich

In the past month I have traveled to three different places outside of Sofia.

I have read at least four books and am dangerously close to completing the reading list that I had thought would last me 11 months.

I received one cute Christmas present from my students.

I listened to music. A lot of it.

I spent a good 15 minutes in class trying to explain to a 13 year old Bulgarian boy that The Notorious B.I.G. is not commonly referred to as "The Notorious Big", though "Biggie" is acceptable.

I was lucky enough to spend some much needed family time with my Dad.

I also got to spend two hours with Jeff Bridges listening to the sweet sweet sounds of Daft Punk. In other words, I went to see Tron: Legacy. Sadly I was not able to attend the film with Team Canada as I had planned (which made it decidedly less awesome) but it was fun and geeky nonetheless.

Speaking of Mr. Bridges I can't wait to get my hands on this asap. Still searching for it here in BG.

1/1/2011

2011-01-01T11:03:00.000-08:00

*Photos from some of my favorite shops/record stores in Munich

Just arrived back in Sofia from Istanbul. No doubt that there will be plenty of photos and stories of this to come but they'll have to wait until I'm able to keep my nose to the grindstone and stop fantasizing about moving to Germany and working here.

28/12/2010

2010-12-28T01:04:00.000-08:00

More photos from the Christmas Market in Munich. Mulled wine and candied almonds galore.

Reading List Update: Bulgakov and Gladwell, check and check.

27/12/2010

2010-12-27T06:39:00.000-08:00

Happy Holidays! I'm back in Sofia though hopefully only briefly. I've just returned from a much needed Christmastime trip to Munich, Germany. It was absolutely perfect. I love Germany and will take any opportunity I get to go back. The culture, the people, the food, the beer, all of it was spectacular (not to mention a complete change of pace from Bulgaria). The best part was getting to see my Dad and spend our typical father daughter time, taking photos, drinking coffee, chatting about music, hunting down record stores and exploring the German jazz scene. Aside from the general awesomeness of Germany I think there were several reasons, ranging from expected to a few nothing short of bizarre, why I enjoyed it so much. These break down as follows:

The Expected:

Food and Drink: German food is hearty and delicious. Of course, I may be slightly biased if only because Bulgarian food and I don't have the best of histories. Don't get me wrong, Bulgaria has some delicious traditional foods but it takes a lot to beat out holiday gingerbread, hot red cabbage salad, sauerkraut and the meat and potatoes-esque staples that make up most German cuisine. Needless to say beer is not to be found wanting in Bavaria, the land of Oktoberfest.

Music and Art: Of course the artistic heritage of Germany and the former HRE is pretty self evident. Beethoven, Mozart, etc. However, Germany's art scene is hardly limited to classical works and I was really lucky to be able to enjoy some fantastic jam sessions at an underground jazz club. The architecture is also varied and beautiful and surprisingly whimsical.

Family and the Holidays: I feel like this one is self explanatory, but I should tip my hat to the Munich Christmas Market, which was a lot of fun. Loads of vendors, candied almonds, mulled wine, ice skating, essentially the definition of holiday cheer.

The Unexpected:

Passing: While I was expecting this to an extent as everyone in Bulgaria immediately assumes me to be German or Russian I was surprised a how reassuring it was to be able to pass as a local. Granted, this became a little problematic, as it meant I had to deal with the inevitable awkward "I don't speak German moment" but overall it was a refreshing change. If I was lucky though, I managed to avoid that moment entirely, which is always a fun little game. As a general rule it makes one less likely to be a victim of crime and also way less likely to be stared at, which is a daily and often slightly disconcerting ritual in BG (that being said, I understand perfectly why this occurs. It's natural to notice difference). It was also nice to find shoes that were actually my size.

German Culture: Again, I expected this to be different from Bulgaria but not necessarily in the ways that is was. Be it my heritage or merely a personal appreciation for order and punctuality, I definitely enjoyed the fact that transportation and services were always timely and efficient and that the queue was not a foreign concept. It made for an easy trip despite the language barrier. One aspect I didn't really expect was just how friendly everyone was. Granted, I say this as someone who could pass of a local, so I should acknowledge that my experience might not be the norm, but in general people were gracious and helpful. This runs totally contrary to the unfortunate reputation of German culture and character that has tragically been defined by Nazism and WWII in the last century. In fact, I would argue that my favorite thing about Germany is the way in which a love of order exists simultaneously with an appreciation for lighthearted fun. The Glockenspiel is a perfect example of this. Germany may run like clockwork, but the clock just so happens to be a massive and fanciful cuckoo-clock.

The Bizarre:

The German Poodle Obsession: Germans love their dogs. LOVE them. This also is a happy thing to see and I only wish that loveable dogs like Ralph had such pleasant owners in BG. The majority of these dogs seem to be poodles. I don't know why, but I'm willing to roll with it and acknowledge it as totally awesome.

14/12/2010

2010-12-14T12:43:00.000-08:00

Yesterday was a good day, if only because we finally got SNOW! While I'm not looking forward to what this might do to my commute to work in the coming weeks, I can't help but love it. Now if only I had some snow boots...

Listening to this. How appropriate.

12/12/2010

2010-12-12T10:45:00.000-08:00

This pretty much sums up life of late.

Mint tea, 90s music videos, Bulgakov. Sounds like an evening in Sofia to me.

11/12/2010

2010-12-11T07:56:00.000-08:00

Visiting Stara Zagora (a town in central Bulgaria) for the weekend. I'm staying with my friend and lovely hostess Laura. Sadly, I've managed to relapse into my former flu-y state but we've managed to have a relaxing time nonetheless. Stara-Z is a pretty place with some nice parks and even a zoo, even though the state of the animals in their enclosures was a little ~~depressing~~ heartbreaking. That aside however, it's been a decidedly chill 24 hours of homey American Kraft mac & cheese and old movies. Just perfect for a freezing weekend in early December.

The Christmas Yak: Hairy and Unamused.

Maxence Cyrin - Where Is My Mind (The Pixies Piano Cover)

2010-12-09T02:13:00.000-08:00

8/12/2010

2010-12-08T15:24:00.000-08:00

Some eerie photos from a recent day trip to a nearby village. They seemed appropriate considering the fact that I've managed to put my insomnia to relatively good use by reading Goethe's Faust. After finishing Kundera earlier today I was pleased to find my animal loving sensibilities affirmed by the heartbreaking end of Karenin and now feel like less of a total sap for buying dog treats at the grocery and sharing them with well deserving (if somewhat itinerant) canines like Ralph on my way home from school. Having gotten Faust out of the way I now feel totally prepared to embark on Bulgakov.

It's been a long and busy week of teaching and Winter Break still seems too far away, but I'm excited to escape the smoggy city for the weekend. Within 48 hours I will be on my way to seeing my very first yak, and am more than a little excited. With any luck homemade/improvised Christmas cookies may be in the cards as well. In the meantime Shearwater will just have to get me through my constant keyboard cravings.

7/12/2010

2010-12-07T13:16:00.000-08:00

Halfway through the workweek with a big day tomorrow. Today's sanity was supplied by mint tea and Brian Eno. I considered going for a run today, but the air quality of late is awful. Winter thus far has been decidedly snowless and smoggy.

I've been thinking back to the afternoon I got to spend walking through the Tate Modern, one of my favorite places. On my last trip I was lucky to discover a lot of artists and work that I really liked, including David Shrigley, whose drawings and dark humor never cease to amuse me.

6/12/2010

2010-12-06T12:37:00.000-08:00

Difficult times of late. After spending over four months abroad I can honestly say that the best piece of advice I could give about living here is to have no expectations about anything, as this will leave you often pleasantly surprise and rarely disappointed. Never utter the words, "well, at least it can't get any worse" because, as predicted by Murphy's Law, it assuredly will.

I do my best to maintain a sense of positivity on this blog, as previously mentioned (if only because it's in short supply where I currently live), thus the photos of sunnier times. When I'm not working I keep myself occupied reading, knitting, writing, and of late, compulsively cleaning. In the event that I finish this scarf in the next week I'll probably be picking up cross-stitching again as well. Personal morale is being maintained through perpetual self bribery ranging from knee socks to Bukowski. I'm in the midst of The Incredible Lightness of Being which I'm finding to be a beautiful example of Eastern European literature in both its imagery and simplicity and fascinated by the way that Kundera utilizes these elements to convey such human themes.

"Chance and chance alone has a message for us. Everything that occurs out of necessity, everything expected, repeated day in and day out, is mute. Only chance can speak to us. We read its message much as gypsies read the images made by coffee grounds at the bottom of a cup" (46).

"'Co-incidence' means that two events unexpectedly happen at the same time, they meet [...] It is wrong then, to chide the novel for being fascinated by mysterious coincidences (like the meeting of Anna, Vronsky, the railway station, and death or the meeting of Beethoven, Tomas, Tereza, and the cognac), but it is right to chide man for being blind to such coincidences i his daily life. For he thereby deprives his life of a dimension of beauty"(50).

Enough said.

Winter Break remains a tantalizing three weeks away.

30/11/2010

2010-11-30T14:37:00.000-08:00

Well friends, it appears that the Bulgarian flu has turned me into a bit of an insomniac.

I am thankfully now on the mend, free from fever and left merely with the dregs of whatever it was that I managed to catch. Hopefully I'll be out and about, at least to the grocery, sometime with in the next 24 to 36 hours. Thrilling stuff, I know. I'm really hoping that this isn't the only way in which life will start looking up here in the next few weeks. Lately time has really seemed to drag, and while I'm grateful for the opportunity to be here I do need to make some serious changes in relation to my work and side projects/interests.

In order to help the time pass a little more quickly I've been doing a lot of reading, knitting, writing, and list making. Thankfully I also have some small things to look forward to. That's right folks, in less than two weeks, I'm going to see my first ever YAK. How's that for a holiday special? Vonfancy and the Christmas Yak it is. The only way this could be better is if it involved 200 yards and mindbullets.

Only 7 months left.

Stars- Sleep Tonight

2010-11-29T15:12:00.001-08:00

29/11/2010

2010-11-29T15:12:00.000-08:00

I didn't even realize that the flu had stolen my voice until I dragged myself to the grocery today and could hardly make much of a noise, let alone explain to the woman at the register that I didn't need yet another plastic bag (here they charge a small fee per bag). I then returned to the apartment, soup and OJ in hand and proceeded to pass out for the rest of the day. Of course, this leaves me awake at random hours of the night, with nothing to do but peruse the vast and mind-numbing expanses of the internet.

29/11/2010

2010-11-29T02:58:00.000-08:00

Not a lot to report from Sofia these days as I've been laid up with some sort of flu for almost a week now. While do appreciate the lovely sunny day we're having today, I wish I could get a little more of it than a few spare glances at the window. I should admit that things have been rather challenging of late. I knew when I signed up for this that it would be one of the most challenging things I had ever done. It's a good thing I recognized that going in, because Bulgaria, despite being a fascinating place certainly hasn't made life here particularly easy for me. This blog is not the place for homesick whining, so I'm not about to commence with any, but I will say that I can't express just how grateful I am to all of my friends and family who have stayed in touch and supported me through these past four months. Like one would expect with any place, life here has its strikes and gutters. Sometimes all one can do is make some Earl Grey, grab a good book and wave the white flag of surrender to the vagaries of life abroad.

So, tea in hand, I challenge you, Edmund Spenser. Rock my world.

Oh, and a Happy (if somewhat belated) Thanksgiving!

18/11/2010

2010-11-18T14:14:00.000-08:00

Still recovering and traveling this weekend.

Despite the hubbub I've managed to finish White Fang and Call of the Wild. They're beautiful stories and I love London as a writer but I must admit that they really make me miss home and the mountains and woods.

I should probably start hanging out with this guy.

(Photos from Krakow, Poland)

17/11/2010

2010-11-17T10:22:00.000-08:00

Ralph's Polish cousin?

The past few days have been an absolute blur of people, information and airports. This doesn't look like it will be changing anytime soon. I only hope I'm able to fully recover from this very unfortunately migraine first. If so, life will be dandy.

What I'm listening to lately.

Final thoughts: I don't know whether to be happy or disturbed that Amazon.com has begun sending me emails advertising red Swedish Fish. Either way they certainly have me on the appropriate mailing list.

15/11/2010

2010-11-16T05:46:00.000-08:00

Here's a sneak peek of my first night in Krakow. Beautiful city, delicious food, and one of my favorite excursions thus far. The flight was exciting to say the least as our landing felt nothing short of impending doom. Somehow I also ended up in Poland without lipstick. This was remedied almost immediately.

12/11/2010

2010-11-12T05:59:00.000-08:00

Nobody tells this to people who are beginners, I wish someone told me. All of us who do creative work, we get into it because we have good taste. But there is this gap. For the first couple years you make stuff, it’s just not that good. It’s trying to be good, it has potential, but it’s not. But your taste, the thing that got you into the game, is still killer. And your taste is why your work disappoints you. A lot of people never get past this phase, they quit. Most people I know who do interesting, creative work went through years of this. We know our work doesn’t have this special thing that we want it to have. We all go through this. And if you are just starting out or you are still in this phase, you gotta know its normal and the most important thing you can do is do a lot of work. Put yourself on a deadline so that every week you will finish one story. It is only by going through a volume of work that you will close that gap, and your work will be as good as your ambitions. And I took longer to figure out how to do this than anyone I’ve ever met. It’s gonna take awhile. It’s normal to take awhile. You’ve just gotta fight your way through.

-Ira Glass.

Thank you Ira.

11/11/2010

2010-11-12T05:53:00.000-08:00

As you may have noticed I've been on a brief hiatus from blogging. This was not intentional and was due to a power outage in my apartment. Thankfully, despite Nickeodeon's best efforts I am not afraid of the dark. While problematic in a variety of ways, I must also admit that it was rather nice to know that nothing could be done and therefore I could just sit back and enjoy listening to some new music on my previously charged ipods and engage in my more octogenarian habits by candlelight. Altogether not too shabby! This has, however, decimated my library as in my free time I managed to blaze through The Bell Jar, and a collection of short stories by Roald Dahl entitled Someone Like You. I realize I say this about everything I read, but please, if you have the chance, pick these books up off the shelf!

Of course, now that I am plugged back into the matrix blogging shall recommence.

7/11/2010

2010-11-07T13:09:00.000-08:00

Separation

BY W. S. MERWIN

Your absence has gone through me

Like thread through a needle.

Everything I do is stitched with its color.

6/11/2010

2010-11-06T13:02:00.000-07:00

Exciting literary happenings these past few days. As you can see on the reading list I've officially completed Moby Dick. Epic, beautiful, hilarious, all that jazz that I honestly never expected. Well done Melville. Spencer and Plath are up next. As frustrating and challenging as these first few months in Bulgaria have been, I must admit that I love having the time to dedicate to reading. However, this week much of my free time will be taken up by the So Independent film festival currently going on in Sofia. Tonight I went to see Howl, which was a really fascinating film to watch, especially here. While I need to give the film as a whole more thought (and maybe a second viewing) it was definitely a guilty pleasure. I don't get to hear English on a regular basis, and I certainly don't get to hear poetry, so sitting in a theater for an hour and a half listening to recitations of Ginsberg was heaven. One thing that did strike me though was the central focus of the film and the whole "Howl Debate" in relation to obscenity and free speech and press. Sitting in a one-screen Bulgarian theater that was probably constructed at a time similar to the setting of the film I couldn't help but wonder if the impact of the film's message had the same impact on a Bulgarian audience that hadn't been drilled as I have in notions of public freedoms in relation to media. I don't doubt that it was understood, but it was definitely a moment in which I felt decidedly American, and a proud one at that. For those of you of the beatnik persuasion, check it out. I'd love to hear your thoughts!

Glasgow: Part 2 - The Black Keys

2010-11-06T03:59:00.000-07:00

A top contender for best moment of 2010.

Glasgow: Part 1

2010-11-05T09:30:00.000-07:00

Dear Glasgow,

It's been five years since we last saw each other. I must confess, my feelings have not changed. This is not infatuation. This is true love.

Sincerely yours,

Vonfancy

5/11/2010

2010-11-05T05:15:00.000-07:00

Photos of Sofia, BG

Happy Guy Fawkes Day everyone! I'm back in Bulgaria after a lovely trip to one of my favorite cities, good ol' Glasgow. You'll be seeing photos soon enough. I can't say that coming back isn't a bit difficult, but at least the weather has been nice and welcoming. That past week was wonderful and it was great to take a bit of a mental break and see beloved old friends from the states. I also managed to finish Candide, Trainspotting, Steppenwolf, and A Clockwork Orange. All of these were excellent, but I have to say that A Clockwork Orange was a spectacular read, if only because I didn't need to use a Russian dictionary to make sense of it as I've been speaking some sort of Slavic English for the past three months. Bulgaria has its perks I suppose!

Romania: Part 3 - Peles and Sinaia

2010-10-26T14:58:00.000-07:00

Peles Castle, as pictured above, is considered one of the two most beautiful castles in Europe (the other being in Germany). It's not difficult to see why, especially as Sinaia (the town it's located in) is also remarkable.

Romania: Part 2 - Bran Castle

2010-10-26T14:26:00.000-07:00

Bran Castle. This was one sight that couldn't be missed. Yes, I am aware that this was not the castle owned by the historical Vlad the Impaler (that is located in Wallachia, and plans for a trip are already in the works for spring) but it has become known as Dracula's castle because it was used in the Coppola film among others. Regardless it is a stunning piece of architecture and was the perfect way to celebrate finally managing to read Stoker's novel after all these years. I was also excited to see it because of its connections with the Romanian royal family who used it as a residence. When I was young I spent an exciting and rather creepy day at the Maryhill Museum of Art, and I recalled there being various artifacts there concerning the former Queen of Romania. All in all it was definitely worth the entrance fee and provided an exciting day trip. Oh, did I mention that we managed to catch all three of our buses to various locations in Romania successfully all by our non-Romanian speaking selves?

In a similar vein (pun intended) I've been listening to this lately.

Romania: Part 1 - Transylvania

2010-10-26T13:33:00.000-07:00

So, before I head off on the next adventure I am posting Romania pictures as promised. As there were so many beautiful things to take pictures of this will, without a doubt, take several posts so be sure to stay tuned. We'll begin with the train ride and general photos of Romania, primarily the Transylvania/Bran area including some outdoor pictures of Bran castle. The castle deserves a post all its own.

On the whole our weekend was an absolute blitz. We literally traveled through Romania in less than 48 hours, somehow accomplishing almost everything we had planned. Clearly, sleep was not on the itinerary, but it was worth it. I've already made up my mind to go back. Romania is not to be missed, particularly in autumn. It is one of the most beautiful places I've been yet and was a wonderful and vibrant contrast to my gray life in Bulgaria of late.

24/10/2010

2010-10-24T06:40:00.000-07:00

Back in Sofia after a wonderful weekend in Romania. It was absolutely beautiful and I can't wait to escape Sofia again and go back. Fall in Romania is not to be missed. Don't worry, I'll be sure to post plenty of pictures and the accompanying stories soon enough. For now it suffices to say that my fellow travelers and I had a hard time getting on that bus back home. Surprisingly enough though, today is a beautiful sunny day in Bulgaria (as shown by the above photos). Everyone is out walking their dogs in the park and I'm attempting to motivate myself to go out on a run before hopefully catching some music tonight. I'm convinced this is Bulgaria's way of attempting to win me back. I'll let it slide Bulgaria, just this once.

20/10/2010

2010-10-20T12:56:00.000-07:00

If you're thinking what I was thinking upon seeing this photo your thoughts are something along the line of, "Wow, that is either one bizarre Communist statue or one prodigious mushroom!". I'm sad to report it is actually the former.

I'm so happy to be almost finished with a busy and taxing workweek. School and writing haven't been too difficult to juggle but I continue to struggle with communicating with people here. While part of it is certainly the language barrier, it's also definitely institutional as well. I can see why so many Bulgarians are often frustrated with bureaucracy and the lack of transparency here as I've had the misfortune of encountering it on many levels. Thankfully I've been able to escape into my reading (thank you Melville for being so brilliant) and am dangerously close to finishing Moby Dick. I also managed to finish a very interesting text, Bury Me Standing by Isabel Fonseca, which attempts to create a sort of educational narrative concerning the situation of Gypsies or Roma in Europe. This became of particular interest to me living in Bulgaria, where it's something I encounter on a daily basis. While I'm familiar with issues of racial strife in the US, Europe is an entirely different ballgame, if only because national identity is linked directly to ethnic identity in a distinctly different way. While the book did leave some things to be desired, I would suggest picking it up if you're interested as it's one of the newer and more accessible written pieces of work that's been done on the topic.

On the bright side, I finally ran into Frank today. We usually hang out most days on my walk home from school and he hadn't made an appearance in a while so I was growing a bit worried. He's quite a scruffy little nerfherder, which I can't deny gives him a special place in my heart. Bulgaria has a major problem with stray animals and very little is done to take care of them or get them off the streets. It's a sad thing to see and frustrating in that there's nothing constructive that one can do as an individual to change the situation. I would also like to thank the older gentleman who gave me his ticket on the bus today when the bus driver rudely rejected my request to purchase a ticket (spoken in well practiced Bulgarian no less). I know you had tickets driver-man. That was inconsiderate. Thankfully there are nice fellow bus riders who will give you their ticket in case of inspection. Whoever you are, wherever you are, thank you. Your kindness, as well as this, got me through that 6:30 am bus ride.

While a relaxing weekend would be great, it is not in the cards as I'm heading out to Romania within the next 48 hours. In case you're wondering, yes, I am going to Transylvania just before Halloween and yes, this was a priority. I couldn't not go after finishing Dracula just in time now could I? I also picked up the above so that I would have something to keep me occupied on the bus. I'm more than a little excited to read it but if this keeps up the reading list is growing at an absurd rate.

Hopefully I'll have lovely photos and adventures to share upon my return!

18/10/2010

2010-10-18T12:41:00.000-07:00

It's been an evening of recovery after a rough and difficult day. It's times like these when I can't help but wish I was back home enjoying my favorite beer or a glass of port back home (provided by one of my favorite lovely bartenders of course) and chatting with friends at one of our regular haunts, probably listening to something absurd like this. Perhaps it's this bit of homesickness or at least nostalgia for the home front that has me so hooked on these photographs by Julie Blackmon, taken from a recent collection entitled "Domestic Vacations". I'm no photography buff so I lack the appropriate vocabulary to describe the photos in full, but I can say that I absolutely love her use of color and of space. See more of her work here. In the meantime I will get back to my glass of tea and Moby Dick, which will have to suffice for now. Sometimes time here moves so fast while other nights it just crawls, but I know that this adventure will seem to be over before I know it.

17/10/2010

2010-10-17T12:14:00.000-07:00

The sun finally decided to come out today and I couldn't stop myself from taking a couple photos, despite the fact that they are otherwise relatively mundane. I suppose the same could be said for today in general. While it had its exciting moments (chiefly getting to visit the former Party House for the Sofia Architecture Week forums) I spent most of the day holed up in my cozy room, not wanting to leave or do anything particularly constructive. This is probably partially attributable to the fact that I've been feeling a little low of late and am probably fighting some sort of cold. I am determined that this will not take hold, as I have far too many exciting things planned for this week. Thankfully I was able to motivate myself to finish a brief article for submission as well as finish Slaughterhouse 5. It's yet another one of those texts that I can't believe it's taken me so long to get around to reading. As expected, I really enjoyed it and am more than a little sad that it's over. I suppose that should inspire me to finish up Melville this week in my spare time.

16/10/2010

2010-10-16T18:00:00.000-07:00

It is a truth universally acknowledged that few things in life are more beautiful than a pint of Guinness. With this in mind, tonight was an exceptionally beautiful night. After a busy day full of shopping, several successful attempts at procrastination (many of which involved some much needed cleaning) and consequently, a similar number of failed attempts at writing, Guinness was the perfect finish. A few of us met up at an Irish pub to celebrate the arrival of a fellow Fulbrighter's significant other, who I'm looking forward to getting to know and becoming fast friends with. He's just the sweetest person, though our communication at the moment is limited as I know very little American Sign Language. Thus, ASL has now been added to the list of the many things that I will be learning this year. Oddly enough, I'd say I'm picking this up far faster than Bulgarian, purely based on the number of words that I've learned in the past evening. Time will tell I suppose. I'm hoping to refresh my ASL alphabet knowledge and have it memorized by the end of the week as my name is currently all I can recall from the few lessons I had in primary school. Wish me luck!

Some other things that have been entertaining me lately:

As if I needed another reason to love the Local Natives.

The best case yet for moving to Portland.

Some really good stuff.

Have I mentioned how much I need to start writing letters? Perhaps this will provide the needed inspiration.

15/10/2010: Part 3

2010-10-16T17:30:00.000-07:00

While I realize that it might seem a little absurd to split this evening into three parts it really want just that much of an adventure. After finishing up at SAW a friend and I decided to head over to The Apartment for a couple drinks, unsure of where the rest of the night would take us. Upon our arrival we made the acquaintance of another group of artists, three animators/directors who were here in Sofia to show their works at a film festival (which, much to my chagrin, I was unable to attend). They were all perfectly lovely gentlemen and we quickly became friends, especially once some entertaining locals showed up on the scene.

Our new Bulgarian friends found it hilarious that they had stumbled upon a room full of foreigners (together we accounted for the US, France, Britain and Norway, in terms of origin) and proceeded to entertain us for the rest of the evening, even taking the time to show us to another bar. This bar is actually one of my favorite discoveries thus far in terms of nightlife, if only because it houses several pool tables and dart boards, two things I desperately miss from the states, though I'm quite shabby at both of them. All in all, I had a great night meeting new people and having great conversation about everything from travel to music and art, and in true Bulgarian style, our evening ended just as the sun came up. I can't think of better proof that I'm really starting to adjust to life here.

15/10/2010: Part 2 (SAW)

2010-10-16T17:18:00.000-07:00

As you can see, the opening pary for Sofia Architecture Week was more than a little incredible. Held in the central mineral baths of Sofia (now a historical site that is no longer functioning), the event was the kick-off of a series of forums and presentations from up and coming architects from all over Europe who have gathered here to discuss new developments and innovations in architecture. These range from the process of recreating and further developing neighborhoods and former communist era cement structures to architectural development in the Roma community. However, my first reaction to this whole experience was absolute awe at the architectural beauty of the bath house itself. The event was quite a treat as this is rarely a site that is open to the public, let alone staffed with a live DJ and a number of bartenders. The bath house itself is still under renovation, but beautiful nonetheless. The pictures I've posted here really cannot do it justice, especially with the variety of lighting and the various artistic installations that were created and used specifically for this event. The combination of old and new was perfect. I never imagined I'd watch a presentation on avant-garde Estonian architecture while sitting in a centuries old bath that has now been outfitted with fashionable modern cushions. Incredible, just incredible.

The exhibits themselves were also fascinating and highly educational. As a relative beginner in terms of architect (my knowledge is probably limited to the three varieties of columns) these installations were quite informative. I was particularly intruiged by the notion of the role of architects in terms of "taming spatial chaos" and "giving space meaning". Don't get me wrong, I know that this is something that all of us experience on a daily basis, whether we realize it or not, but it definitely made me want to investigate this notion further, not to mention revisit some of my theory readings, particularly Foucault (why oh why did I leave that textbook in the States?).

Just in case you didn't quite catch it, this was a non-smoking event. I really would love one of these for my room.

While most of the other photos don't do it justice, the party itself was quite spectacular too. DJ 1,000 Names played a great show and I'm looking forward to catching him live with some of my coworkers again sometime soon. Overall, the crowd was full of interesting people, while I always prefer to, well, pretty much any other kind of crowd. Looking back on the night I must say that the best part of the whole event was realizing that I've begun to find my niche here in Sofia. The theme of SAW this year is "The periphery is where I'm not". That has never rung more true.

15/10/2010: Part 1

2010-10-16T13:15:00.000-07:00

Today involved unsurpassed amounts of walking around Sofia, which was quite nice despite the rainy weather thanks to my recently acquired umbrella. While I'm grateful for the shelter from the elements it provides, it is yet another adjustment to Bulgaria that I hadn't quite expected. Like any good inland north-westerner I brought my Marmot raincoat with me here only to find that such things are virtually unknown here. Back home my Seattleite friends and I dubbed tourists "umbies" simply because their use of an umbrella was a dead giveaway that they weren't locals. In Bulgaria the case is exactly the opposite. I may be an "umbie" for a year but rest assured that nothing could truly tear me away from my raincoat. It doesn't make me feel as if I'm going to lift off a la Mary Poppins every time a breeze comes by. After visiting Ecru and finding a lovely shirt-dress to wear to the party tonight I joined a friend with whom I visited a local coffee shop with a tempting display of treats and sugary creations including meringue cookies.We also stopped by a soup shop where I'm sure I'll become a regular, if only because it's halfway between the magazine and my apartment and it brings back memories of "soup" with my friends back home. I took the long way home as I attempted to brainstorm some ideas for an article and spent the rest of the afternoon getting ready for the opening party of Sofia Architecture Week which I'm both excited and a little bit nervous to attend.

14/10/2010

2010-10-14T16:35:00.000-07:00

Yet another busy marvelous day. I'm beginning to feel spoiled. I'm also really beginning to like it here as I've begun to develop a sincere appreciation for many of the quirky things about Sofia. One sure sign of this is my almost constant peanut craving. When I first arrived here I was puzzled by the fact that there are street vendors selling nuts on what seems like every corner of the city. As someone who has never really been a fan, I really didn't get what the big deal was. Clearly, Bulgaria has gotten to me. So, when I finally dragged myself out of my cozy bed this morning and ventured into yet another damp day my first stop was at the store to grab some salted peanuts for lunch. My destination was a tiny boutique named Ecru which I had seen before as it is close to one of my favorite bars in Sofia. The boutique is beautifully arranged and has one of the best window displays I've seen here. Simple and elegant. I knew I had to go after reading through the latest edition of Edno and seeing that it had received a very positive review. So, I decided to go, not only to explore the shop but to get a sense of the place and how it had been written about.

Unfortunately I arrived too early. Me and my American ways have yet to adjust to living in a city where smaller shops are open limited hours, so when I showed up at eleven I found I had to wait till twelve. After a relaxing peanut filled lunch in the nearby park I went back to Ecru and introduced myself to its wonderful owner, Maria. I should state first off that the woman has fabulous taste. The whole store, though small, is organized beautifully and is overall a unique and great concept. Ecru sells quality clothes that Maria has found during her hunts through Sofia's various thrift stores at a very affordable price. She takes the hunting out of bargain hunting. Feel free to take a look at her blog, as well as the shop's blog.

I ended up purchasing a beautiful high-waisted gray wool skirt for a great price. It'll will be perfect for teaching and for the chilly fall weather. I also love that it feels so 1970s while also being reminiscent of recent Chloe creations. I should also mention the beeswax candles I bought for 3 leva at a nearby shop. Please note the fake wax bees that have been attached to the candles. Classic. I'm sure that Ecru is going to be one of my go to shops for clothing this year. In fact, I already know that I'm going back tomorrow to look for something to wear for an Edno related event this weekend.

Spent the afternoon teaching and wrapped up the day by retreating to my room to read some Melville and listen to a lot of this and this. The second is a Bulgarian podcast that I've really been enjoying of late. This particular one includes a lot of Yann Tiersen, so it may sound familiar to all of you Amelie fans out there. Mostly it just makes me miss piano. Spent the later part of the evening dining at Skara Bar where I ate delicious grilled chicken and potatoes with a sauce that made it deliciously reminiscent of chicken tikka masala. Our final destination was Tea House (again, what can I say, I love it!) where a visiting friend and I enjoyed yet more truffles and tried a new herbal blend. I can only hope that Friday will be just as good.

13/10/2010: Part 2

2010-10-14T15:50:00.000-07:00

And now, what you've all been waiting for. The most exciting thing to happen to me yet in Bulgaria. Prior to coming to Bulgaria I had tried to do some research on the art and music scene here and didn't come up with much. It's small to be sure, but quite stalwart. One of the few things I did find was a magazine called Edno, though at the time I couldn't read it, as it was all in Bulgarian. A few weeks ago I decided to look into it again and lo and behold they had gone bi-lingual. It is truly a beautiful thing. It's a great magazine dedicated to arts and culture and bringing artistic life and positive developments to Sofia. As I had yet to discover another appropriate side project, I decided that shooting the editor/contact person for the magazine an exceptionally dorky "I-love-your-magazine-do-you-need-an-intern" email couldn't hurt. I received a prompt response and am thrilled to report that I met with them this afternoon. After a quick meeting I found myself a new part of a group of wonderful people dedicated to a really great cause. I'll be helping out in a variety of ways with music, writing, editing, and event planning and couldn't be happier.

If you're interested in seeing what my excitement is all about firsthand, check out the magazine here.

After leaving that meeting on Cloud 9 (from which I've yet to fall) I meandered my way back to my favorite neighborhood in Sofia. I was not far into my walk when I looked down to my left and discovered a delightful little shop that I had never noticed before. One of the quirkiest things that I like most about this city is the complete lack of zoning, meaning that everything and anything can exist absolutely anywhere. There are tiny stores run out of what are effectively basements, that often sell liquor, cigarettes and candy out of tiny windows, not to mention a variety of other odd little businesses and apartments. But back to my walk and the discovery. Yes, just when I thought the day had reached it's pinnacle, when I truly thought it could not get any better I saw these:

BUNNIES!

I cannot express how badly I want one, even though I know it would be terribly unwise as I'm only here for a year. Feeling even happier after running into my twitchy-nosed friends, stopped by the park by my apartment to sit for a spell and look through the most recent copy of the magazine.

I was pleased to discover that my favorite saxophone player was also there, with his harmonica playing friend no less, entertaining us fellow park goers with duets. I was also witness to an exceptionally epic ping pong battle. I will certainly write more on this later as the Bulgarian penchant for ping pong is unlike any other I've seen. For starters, yes, there are several ping pong tables in the park, which are used quite regularly by groups of individuals who clearly bring their own equipment, but more on this later.

After leaving the park I joined a new friend and fellow American at Tea House to chat about the day's events, enjoy a nice bottle of rose, some chocolate truffles, and listen to some lovely live jazz from a local trio. I'm not sure one can ask for more from "just another rainy day".

13/10/2010: Part 1

2010-10-14T15:22:00.000-07:00

Another eventful day. It finally looks like I've gotten all of my visa issues sorted. As such, tomorrow I will hopefully resume my regular schedule back at the school. While teaching is certainly challenging, and teaching in a foreign country even more so, it will be nice to be back on a schedule. Aside from (hopefully) wrapping up the visa debacle I spent my morning perusing the nearby antique market. I find this to be one of the most fascinating places, as it contains everything from art by local artists, to WWII memorabilia, to jewelry and silverware, and even the occasional musical instrument. I didn't bring anything home with me this time but I don't doubt that I'll be back. If anything the market and its contents are almost like a collage of Sofia's history laid out on wet pavement.

In relation to said wet pavement, today was yet another rainy fall day in Sofia. Realizing that the weather will not be changing any time soon I finally caved, broke from my frugal ways, and purchased another pair of boots. Those of you who know me know that I am all about boots. I have faith that the perfect pair is out there somewhere, elusive, like the Round Table's Holy Grail. I did bring my favorite pair to Bulgaria with me (there was no way I was taking on a brand new country without my boots) the rain and mud has had me wearing them everyday. This has had me a little nervous as I can't have them wear out on me. Thus, I needed a second pair. While these aren't completely perfect, they're pretty close, and they'll certainly do the job.

I should also admit that even though I haven't finished Moby Dick, I went ahead and purchased Slaughterhouse Five. I cannot wait to read it. It sits on my desk so temptingly. Soon. Soon.

12/10/2010

2010-10-13T15:38:00.000-07:00

First and foremost I want to express my sadness that the world lost Solomon Burke this past Sunday. He was an incredible musician and I feel so lucky that I got to see him this past summer at the Bansko International Jazz Festival. The man put on an incredible show. "Got To Get You Off My Mind" definitely ranks as one of my personal favorites. The video above was taken at the jazz festival this past summer. I apologize for the terrible quality. I would urge you to purchase a better recording. It's just that good.

R.I.P. Solomon Burke. You will be missed.

In other news today, the seemingly endless "to do" list has suddenly grown shorter. Not by much perhaps, but definitely shorter by some measure. I have finally made progress in getting my visa issues fixed meaning that I can soon fall back into my teaching routine and continue the surreal process of settling in here in Bulgaria. While there was little of my day that was not spent standing in line, the time that was left over was dedicated to the Cyrillic alphabet, which, while have mastered reading and writing it, I have yet to memorize in its entirety and proper order. I'm hoping to have drilled this into my brain by tomorrow prior to the inaugural meeting of our Bulgarian language study group.

I've also managed to teach myself the days of the week and important words like who, what, when, where, why, and how. It feels childish, but I'm really excited to learn my colors and clothing vocabulary all over again if only because I'm sure they will come in so handy in terms of my survival here. I'm dangerously close to having memorized 1-10 as well. It's funny how every excursion I take here becomes a lesson in Bulgarian vocabulary. I know words that one would never take the time to learn in a classroom, but am missing some of the most basic elements. I guess this is the problem with attempting to learn a language purely through immersion. All of my linguistic efforts were rewarded at the end of the day by a steaming bowl of Latin letter alphabet soup, the packet for which I unknowingly picked up at the local market. All in all, it was a cozy in to a terribly wordy day.

I should also mention that I have jumping right into Melville's Moby Dick and am enjoying it more than I ever expected. It's one of those novels that I think gets a really bad reputation and now that I'm reading it, I'm not entirely sure why. Perhaps it's because of its length. Of course, after trudging through (though simultaneously reveling in) 900 + pages of Dostoevsky, Moby Dick seems like a walk in the park. More importantly, why did no one ever tell me how funny Melville is? I never expected this text to have so many great lines, many of which I'll probably be boring you with in the near future purely out of self indulgence. Up until this point I always took a Bartleby-esque approach to Melville, specifically, "I prefer not". I cannot understate how quickly this has been reversed. Even better, I've promised myself that I get to enjoy this and this upon my completion of the novel. While I'm sure that like most film adaptations this won't fully do the work justice, there is nothing like the promise of Gregory Peck and Patrick Stewart to get me to finish a book!

*photos taken in Sozopol this past August

11/10/2010

2010-10-11T15:33:00.000-07:00

     Today was an eventful Monday. While I wasn't able to get as much accomplished as I would've liked in relation to work and visa issues I was lucky enough to be invited to attend the world premier of a new documentary film entitled Empty Boxcars, which details the story of the rescue of 50,000 Bulgarian Jews from trains carrying them to Treblinka. While the film wasn't quite perfect (there were a few typos with the subtitles and it was slightly schizophrenic in its perspective and perhaps, a little overly simplistic in its description of the historical context of Bulgaria's role in WWII) I think it accomplished its primary goal well, specifically, informing its audience about a very hopeful and unique moment in Bulgarian, and arguably European if not world history. Granted, I have a slight obsession with European history of the early to mid 20th century so I'm bound to be nit-picky.
   Overall the premier itself was lovely. I felt quite honored to get to hear speeches not only from a former Bulgarian president, but two Bulgarian Shoa survivors. Granted this was all in Bulgarian and not translated, but I'm happy to report that I could pick out the odd word or too and their mere presence was moving regardless of the words that were spoken. I was also more than a little please to discover a veritable buffet of chocolate awaiting us upon our arrival, as well as an excellent tea selection. Oh Darjeeling how I have missed you! If nothing else this has inspired me to keep up with some history reading while I'm here as well as watch some films regarding WWII that have been on my "to watch" list for quite some time.
      Movie premier aside I spent most of the day writing and responding to emails, dealing with immigration, potentially setting up and ideal side project (more on this later), listening to music , and blazing my way through Huxley's Brave New World. I realize it's absurd that I'm only just now reading all of these classic dystopian works (and to think I call myself an English major!) but trust me when I say that I myself am more than a little ashamed by this and hoping to ameliorate the situation immediately. Besides, it's only fitting that I get around to reading Orwell, Huxley, Burgess and Zamyatin here, where I often feel like I'm living a psuedo-dystopian existence. I must say that Dracula was absolutely fabulous, blowing all of my eerie Gothic expectations out of the water. Of course, this was made all the more exciting by the fact that much of the work is actually set in what is now Bulgaria (Varna, that sea port they go to? Yeah, I'm going there). Pretty cool stuff. To conclude, today was oddly busy, but similarly, today was oddly good.

10/10/2010

2010-10-11T13:28:00.000-07:00

Aside from a brief jaunt to the market, today has been an utterly lazy day spent recovering from a frustrating and busy week. Sometimes there's nothing better than cozying up and reading for hours on end. I'm now proud to report that I've finished The Brother's K and Bram Stoker's Dracula (just in time for a trip to Romania I hope!). Now the only remaining question is what gets picked next off of the reading list.

Lazy Sunday perfection for all you fellow readers out there here

9/10/2010

2010-10-09T10:45:00.000-07:00

Today has been a lazy day of travel, tea and friends. I snapped some photos on the walk home if only to remind myself that the sun does make an occasional appearance here. Several of us have plans to go out later, which will be nice, but currently I'm skirting the borders of ennui while I consider my options for future traveling and attempt to will myself into finishing The Brothers K. Listen here.

Plovdiv

2010-10-09T10:16:00.000-07:00

Today we took a brief day trip to Plovdiv, a beautiful and historic town that lies about two hours away from Sofia. Thankfully the weather was beautiful. We wandered around the historic parts of the city, Old Town specifically, and were lucky enough to get to tour some of the restored merchant houses from the early 19th century.I will confess that many of the images above are products of surreptitious photography but overall, the tours were great. If you notice a preponderance of colorful building photos this is for two reasons. First, this is the nature of the historical architecture of Plovdiv's Old Town. Second, I've become slightly obsessed with documenting any colorful things I find of late, if only because fall and winter in Sofia seem to bring with them a distinct shade of gray. But, back to Plovdiv. According to our Bulgarian tour guide the city itself was actually originally founded by the father of Alexander the Great. All in all it was a lovely little jaunt out of the city and well worth it. If nothing else it provided the perfect excuse for all of us Fulbrighters to convene in a central location and catch up over coffee on a sunny fall day.

Istanbul

2010-10-08T06:36:00.000-07:00

My apologies for taking so long to report on this. To be fair, this wasn't exactly a planned excursion. There were approximately 4 hours tops between the uttering of the words, "so, weekend in Istanbul?" and boarding the bus to Turkey. I must say that this is one of my favorite things about being here. I love being able to pick up and travel at the drop of a hat. Istanbul has always been on my “places to see” list but I honestly never imagined I’d ever get around to it, be it for financial or political reasons. I’m proud to say I can now check that off the list, though I’m still hoping to go back. There’s far too much to see just one long weekend.

My first impressions of Istanbul were as follows:

This place is HUGE! There are so many people. It’s like New York on steroids. I guess I had forgotten that Istanbul is ranked something like the fifth largest city in the world. Walk down Istiklal to Taksim Square and you will not doubt this for a moment.

Modernity? In comparison to Sofia, there are many things about Istanbul that are surprisingly modern, like the well developed metro and tram system and the number of multi-lingual residents. Not bad for a centuries old metropolis. I realize this is partially due to the size and international nature of the city itself, but it makes for an interesting case study, especially when one considers the fact that Bulgaria has EU membership and Turkey does not.

I miss… Bulgaria? Believe me, I was thoroughly shocked by this. While moving to Sofia has been an adventure, it has hardly been easy. I guess it took hopping a bus to another foreign culture with a completely different language that I know even less of to make me realize how much Bulgarian I actually have picked up in the past couple of months.

The first couple of days were dedicated to be tourists and catching all of the must see historical sites. I’m glad we got around to seeing most of them because next time I visit it will be nice to be able to relax and simply enjoy life in the city. I definitely looked forward to our evenings when we just got to explore local bars and cafes. I even found myself a real dark beer! The last days of the trip were spent exploring the city and meeting up with other traveling Fulbrighters. Overall, highlights included:

Exploring the city with new friends and friends of new friends. These included two wonderful Brits (both of whom were classics students at Cambridge) who were not only perfectly lovely people, but entirely brilliant with Byzantine history. It was like having my own personal guide through the city. I cannot thank them enough.

The Cistern. Easily my favorite historical site. Yes, there are many amazing places and museums, but this is just plain cool. I especially love how unassuming it appears from outside/above ground. I can only imagine how mind-blowing it must have been to discover this.

Old Town. Probably my favorite part of Istanbul. It’s filled with windy old streets, steep hills, and quirky apartments and shops (including many music shops).

Protests. We encountered a small but determined group of protesters in Taksim Square surrounded by police officers. As everything was in Turkish, a friend of mine asked a police officer what the fuss was about. He responded “a little protest about democracy. Nothing more” and proceeded to shoo us away. Interesting.

Baklava. Walnut and chocolate currently rank as my top two favorite flavors. I need to learn how to make this at home.

Ferry rides on the Bosphorus. It was the perfect way to enjoy the city and the sun on our last afternoon in Istanbul.

Listening to two old men argue at night in a public square and having a new friend translate the Turkish to English. Her exact words, “This is getting heated. He’s calling him a Jackal!”

Hopefully I’ll gather more memorable Istanbul moments on future visits. Fingers crossed!